Helichrysum absolute (CAS 8023-95-8) — Floral Heart to base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Helichrysum absolute
CAS 8023-95-8
What Is Helichrysum absolute?
Helichrysum absolute is a rich, honeyed floral extract from the ‘everlasting flower’ native to Mediterranean regions. It’s found in high-end perfumes, aromatherapy oils, and luxury skincare. This precious material is prized for its complex scent profile that combines floral, herbal, and balsamic qualities with exceptional tenacity on skin.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Helichrysum absolute Smell Like?
Helichrysum absolute unfolds with an intense, honeyed sweetness reminiscent of chamomile tea left to steep too long, layered with the dusty pollen of dried flowers. The heart reveals a medicinal herbaceousness – part rosemary, part curry leaf – that gradually softens into a warm, balsamic drydown with whispers of dried apricots and antique wooden cabinets. Unlike fresh florals, it carries a mysterious, sun-baked quality that persists for hours, evolving into an ambery skin scent with subtle leathery undertones.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Helichrysum’s medicinal warmth forms the backbone of this unconventional rose fragrance, adding a honeyed, slightly animalic depth that contrasts beautifully with the metallic rose accord.
Used sparingly to enhance the fragrance’s sun-baked, resinous character, contributing dried floral nuances that evoke Moroccan herbal markets at dusk.
Helichrysum absolute bridges the citrus top and ambery base, its honeyed facets softening the frankincense while adding luminous floralcy.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Helichrysum absolute is obtained through solvent extraction of Helichrysum italicum flowers, yielding a complex mixture of over 300 compounds. Dominant constituents include neryl acetate (15-30%), α-pinene (10-20%), and italidiones (unique to this species). The characteristic honeyed note comes from β-diketones like arzanol. Unlike steam-distilled oil, the absolute retains heavier molecules including plant waxes and pigments that contribute to its exceptional longevity. Chirality plays a role in its scent profile, with the (R)-enantiomer of limonene contributing fresh citrus nuances.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Viscous golden-brown liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in ethanol, fixed oils |
| Flash Point | >100 °C |
Key Constituent Properties
| Constituent | CAS | MW | BP °C | XLogP | Vapor P. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Neryl acetate | 141-12-8 | 196.29 | 237 °C | 3.9 | 0.02 mmHg |
| α-Pinene | 80-56-8 | 136.23 | 155 °C | 3.1 | 3.8 mmHg |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 5% | Powerful modifier – use sparingly |
| Skincare | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | For both fragrance and therapeutic properties |
Classic Accords
Tip: Bloom in alcohol for 24 hours before blending to reveal full complexity.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Similar honeyed profile but with stronger maple syrup notes. Use when more sweetness is desired.
Offers comparable dried fruit facets but with more pronounced herbal-tea character.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
No IFRA restrictions (as of 51st Amendment). Contains potential allergens: limonene (≤5%), linalool (≤2%).
EU Allergen Declaration
Must be declared if present >0.01% in leave-on products: Limonene, Linalool
GHS Classification
RIFM Assessment
RIFM assessment complete – safe at current use levels. No phototoxicity concerns.
Sustainability
Wild harvesting in Mediterranean regions raises sustainability concerns. Each kilogram requires approximately 1,000 kg of fresh flowers. Some producers now cultivate Helichrysum to reduce ecological impact. CO2 extraction is emerging as a more efficient alternative to solvent extraction, though it yields a slightly different scent profile.
Explore Helichrysum absolute
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References
- Paolini et al. (2010). Chemical composition of Helichrysum italicum. Phytochemistry. PMID 20434103
- IFRA Standards Library IFRA 51st Amendment
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
Report a data errorIngredient Data Sheet
CAS 8023-95-8Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.
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